Where the CrossWorlds of Europe and Asia converge to make an unforgettable metropolis
by Jeffrey Guard
Viking Star Arrives in Istanbul, Turkey
If I had to give advice to anyone visiting Istanbul for the very first time, it would be: prepare to be overstimulated, overwhelmed, and completely bewitched every minute you’re in Istanbul.
Surrender to its magic and you’ll have the time of your life!
I lived in New York City for almost two decades, and when we were berthing in Istanbul, I instantly felt a kindred metropolis energy. If you’ve ever lived in a world capital, you know the energy I’m talking about. It’s this kinetic, combustible energy that compels you to move, engage, and soak up every minute of what’s happening on the streets.
Galataport, Istanbul’s passenger port, is a stunning showcase of sophistication. Its ultra-modern architecture is a notice to visitors that Istanbul is not just an ancient civilization to admire, it’s also very much going to be a BIG part of the future.
It’s also centrally located in a posh area of Istanbul where you can access museums, shopping, dining, historic sites, and public transportation.
I knew from the very moment I pulled into port that Istanbul would easily become the best part of the cruise. What I didn’t realize was how passionately I would love it. Istanbul is so many things, but if I had to choose only one word, it would be…beguiling
We got ready and were so excited to see the city. I cannot stress how futuristic the port experience at Istanbul was….it was like we were living in 2035, it was new, clean, with a serene atmosphere, and highly organized.
Our shuttle buses were located in a garage that was easy to find. Aboard was a tourist bag kit. Make sure to carry the bag with you as you’ll need to put your shoes in when visiting holy places that require shoes off. Women will also have to cover their hair, so be sure to bring a scarf; otherwise, you’ll have to use what those places provide (when those were last washed is anyone’s guess).
Security & Safety in Istanbul
Aboard the Viking Star, we were given paper visas we needed to carry (I carried a copy of my passport and a digital image, and left the original in my cabin safe). The paper visas were similar to the ones in Canakkale.
You definitely need to have them on your person. One very important thing to understand about Turkey in general, but especially a place like Istanbul, is that it is a highly intensive security state. You will notice it.
There are surveillance cameras everywhere in Istanbul, police are present everywhere, and virtually all places where we ventured had metal detectors and bag scanners, including hotels.
This is not the place to behave out of turn or to not have the proper documentation on you. As one tourist guide put it, you don’t want to run into the one cop who is having a bad day, and not have your documentation. So, carry the paper that Viking gives you and remember Turkey is not the United States, and your rights do not extend here as an American.
Downloads: Viking Star: Istanbul
Excursion: An Amuse Bouche of Istanbul
We were on the free excursion, “TRIST16: Istanbul Cityscape,” which was something similar to the Panoramic Athens tour in that the bus ride was part of the experience.
And the bus ride alone was actually worth it, to be completely honest. Again, it was a feast for the eyes when you realize that every single spot in Istanbul has a long history. We had some fantastic views of the Wall of Constantinople and other various visual treats on the 25-minute drive from Galataport, where our ship was docked to the Rustem Pasha Mosque and Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı )included.
By the time we already got off the bus, I was already overstimulated, but in a very good way. My advice is to take deep breaths and just surrender to the sights, sounds, smells and textures of this incredible place.
We got off the bus and made our way to the first place, The Rustem Pasha Mosque which is beautiful but not as well known but did have some beautiful touches. I love ancient Islamic design and decorative arts, I think the really old stuff is some of the best in the world, and great example of was the dome and tile work.
That was a brief experience, we were in and out and on our way to the spice bazaar which was next door. The Spice Bazaar was definitely worth more time, and it will overwhelm your senses. There’s so much to see, to taste, smell, touch and hear. The guide introduced us to one market stall and many of them will sell many of the same things: Teas, confections, spices, and a range of souvenirs from clothing, ceramics, to paper products.
We walked around for a bit and found a shop that had price tags on things and bought a few ceramics, a triple set of whirling dervishes. It was a little pricey, but I didn’t care and didn’t really want to haggle either.
One thing that I did find annoying was the constant engagement by the vendors. The predatory gaze that was on us at Kusadasi was on us in this market. Practically every vendor is holding out a tray of goodies. They typically offer a warm, if exuberant welcome, and invite you to taste one whatever is one their trays.
Of course, nothing is for free, and they want you to buy something and after the carpet experience in Kusadasi, I didn’t want to engage anymore. We buy very little when we travel and so if I saw something I really liked, it would need to be small and affordable—and with a price tag, otherwise I was going to walk.
It was easy for me to say no to the food. Having lived in New York City for as long as I have and having traveled as much as I do, food poisoning is ALWAYS at the top of my list, and I was not going to be getting it in Turkey.
Just watching the plate of goodies and all those different hands reaching and touching the food gave me nausea. The deeper into the market we went the more enticements we got, and the more vendors were not willing to accept a simple no.
Finally, with one vendor who refused to accept no three times, I finally said, “I have very bad diarrhea” and he walked, no, he ran away from me.
That was what I started saying until, at the very end, when a very clever vendor said, “My friend, I have something for this, come come–” and I had to say no all over again. In general, telling vendors you have diarrhea works wonders.
That was the very end of the excursion for us. We did not opt to get back on the bus, back to the port, because we were already in the general area to see more of Istanbul. The tour guide was extremely helpful in showing us where to get the light rail and take it one stop further so that we could reach our next stop, Topkapi Palace.
Topkapi Palace
Getting to Topkapi Palace was extremely easy from the excursion site. Directly in front of the Rustem Pasha Mosque was the tram line (T1) stop of Eminönü, which we took to Gülhane and then a short walk. The tram took about 3 minutes with a 7 minute walk.
Topkapi Palace is a misleading term, it’s actually a small city with several large palaces and interconnected courtyards, think an original Disneyland. It’s the old royal residence of the Ottoman sultans, built by Mehmed the Conqueror.
As American I was not prepared for the level of luxury and opulence. The palace was so large we were only able to see roughly 45% of it before exhaustion and overstimulation seized us. Every time we walked out of a building or cluster of buildings, we turned the corner to realize there was more. This was a city unto itself, and you could seriously spend the entire day soaking this place up.
There was no such thing as plain anywhere we went. EVERYTHING was gilded with ornate gold leaf, exquisite design, and overwrought embellishments. EXTRA is all caps. The jewels on display were mind-numbingly huge, and the clothes! The Ottoman sultans had style, and they knew how to dress!
The residential areas where the Sultan’s family lived were called the harem, and something that left me speechless were the servants, male eunuchs, and slaves. These male servants, all of whom were castrated, were the only men allowed into the harem. If you ever wanted to know about the life and times of Turkish eunuchs, this museum is for you.
We got to see everything…well, almost everything. Even though, as servants, they lived better off than 90% of Turkey, I’m sure the trauma and shock of their maimed bodies did little to ever make them feel comfortable there.
Crazy, Expensive Lunch in Istanbul
Finally, we had our fill and needed a break. Because we were so far away from the ship, we decided to have lunch at a restaurant that was a stone’s throw from the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque which is next to Topkapi Palace.
The menu prices were posted outside the entrance, but we were hungry and didn’t bother to notice that the most basic pasta dishes were over $17, with those being the cheapest thing on the menu! Not to mention the fact, that this restaurant was nothing fancy, something very close to mid-level diner.
This was a very important lesson: any restaurant near tourist hotspots was going to be double the price of what you would normally pay, even with tourist pricing. The day after, near our hotel, by the university, the prices of local eateries confirmed this.
What I will say about the food is that it was delicious. I had the pasta, and it was next level, definitely on par with Italian food. I wrote what I wrote! I think Turkish food and its quality are underrated. Everything we ended up eating was truly delicious and of high quality.
The lunch left us recharged and ready for more!
Sultanahmet Square & Park: Perfect for Watching The Legendary Cats of Istanbul
This is a main square-park that connects a lot of tourist hot spots and is also where you can cat watch!
The cats were all out in their full glory. What’s truly amazing about cats in Istanbul is how evolved and organized as a community. You can see the order and hierarchy in colonies. You can see their razor-sharp intellect in the eyes and the delicate balance of relationships between their world and existing with humans.
These cats are honestly no different than most of the Turks we saw.
All of them had something going on; someone was working at security checkpoints, others were lounging, others were seducing humans, they were all on the make, doing something. You could tell they had full lives with places to be, bills to pay, and things to do. It was truly fascinating.
Cat watching and people watching the cats at Sultanahmet is a great way to relax a little further if you’re overstimulated.
Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum
Down the square and across from the Hagia Sophia is a smaller museum, The Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum. It covers the intersection of Turkish culture, history and the integration of Islam. It’s smaller, way less crowded and helps you understand central aspects of Turkish culture, like the importance of hammams or the role of coffee in Turkey.
Of course, there is a lot of woodwork on display as well. Hands down, ancient Islamic woodwork, the precise engraving, the geometric symmetry is truly breathtaking. And don’t even get me started on all the glorious carpets!
Best of all, outside in the courtyards are breathtaking views of the hagia Sophia, one of the Muslims world’s most beautiful mosques.
It’s hard to underscore how drunk on Istanbul I was. I loved all of it, intoxicated and overwhelmed, stretched to the max, exhausted. I was both elated but starting to look like some of the bedraggled cats we saw on the streets.
Back To The Viking Star
We headed back to the ship, taking the light rail tram, which is so easy to use, and I highly recommend. Istanbul was the final port of call, so there was no specific time by which we had to actually be back, technically.
But we were exhausted, and we also had to pack. The worst is when you’ve been living in a place for at least five days and have your stuff scattered everywhere…you know the packing is going to take at least two hours! It’s a brutal business!
When we arrived back on the ship, we had dinner one last time at The Restaurant, washed any remaining items in the laundry room. I thought the washers would be full, but I somehow found a window of availability. I learned from other passengers that some people left early or were leaving at very early hours in the morning.
Not us, even though tomorrow was disembarkation, we had another full day in Istanbul, the day that would be the best day in all the cruise, coming up!
Recommendations:
🎒🌂Bring a backpack with you that includes room for a small umbrella, a hand towel, and plenty of room to pack small souvenirs you might want to buy.
🍭😊 When a vendor calls you over to try some turkey delight or other candy, he is expecting you to buy something, and expecting you to haggle down the inflated price. It’s perfectly OK to say, “No, thank you.” You can also tell them you have diarrhea and rub your stomach, if they are especially aggressive.
🚉🚃👟 Public transport is very easy to use and to figure out. Be aware, though, the light rail only goes so far; you may have to walk for a bit more than you expect to your final destination. This is another reason to wear comfortable shoes.